MEATLESS ILONGGO DISHES TO TRY FOR LENT

There’s a food tour for Kitchens of the World Philippines that I cannot wait to embark on, and it’s to Iloilo, in the company of Mayor Jerry Treñas and his wife Rosalie.

There is more to Iloilo City than just batchoy, pancit molo and KBL (kadyos, baboy, langka), Rosalie said.

“Food is ingrained in the Ilonggo lifestyle. We are known to plan for lunch while eating breakfast, and for dinner while having lunch,” she added.

Mayor Jerry pointed out that food is life for the Ilonggos. “Ask anyone about visiting Iloilo, and the first thing that they will tell you is that our food is to die for.”

The Treñases virtually educated me on their cuisine, and what makes it uniquely their own.

Iloilo City is surrounded by many sources of the freshest raw ingredients, such as rivers and seas, farms and valleys and mountains and forests.

Their food is created with the use of only the freshest ingredients, some of which are endemic to them, like souring agents batwan and labog (leaves) and the vibrant astuitis (achuete). These homegrown and foraged ingredients are what lend a distinct flavor to Ilonggo fare that cannot be found in other Philippines cuisines, and what makes it so interesting.

Ilonggo food is an eclectic mix of tastes, influenced by Spanish, Malay and Chinese fare. It is made even more interesting by the various ways a single recipe is interpreted in the different households.

Partaking of their offerings give the palate a glimpse of the past, and depending on the dish presented, also a taste of the modern.

Without a doubt, Iloilo has become a food lovers haven.

The cookbook “Flavors of Iloilo” has become a personal favorite. A project of Mayor Jerry, Rosalie and of Ilonggo food and culture advocate Rafael J. Jardeleza Jr., the book is a captivating mix of original and mouthwatering family heirloom recipes.

Here are meatless recipes from the book, for you to prepare for Good Friday.

Linagpang nga Inuga nga Lukos

(Grilled Baby Squid Salad by Fidencio Varona, revived by

Ian Meyer Varona)

200 g baby squid, dried

4 Tbsp vinegar (preferably made of tuba or coconut juice)

1 tsp honey

1 tsp fish sauce

1 Tbsp salt

1 tsp black pepper, ground

3 pc tomatoes, chopped

1 pc red onion, chopped

75 g ginger, chopped or grated Garnish:

1 pc long chili fingers, chopped

2 stalks spring onions, sliced Grill dried baby squid and set aside.

In a bowl, mix vinegar, honey and fish sauce, salt and pepper. Mix well.

In a serving bowl, toss tomatoes and onions in vinegar mixture. Add in grilled squid.

To serve, garnish with the chili and sliced spring onions.

Pinasingaw nga Relyeno nga Kasag sa Gata

(Steamed Stuffed Crab in Coconut Milk, recipe of Rafael Javier Jardeleza Jr.) 6pc kasag (blue crab or sea crab)

Water for boiling, enough to cover the crab

1 tsp salt

2 ½ c fresh crab meat

¼ c white onion, chopped

1 c potato, diced

1 c carrot, grated

1/2 c red and green bell peppers, diced

1 c green peas, boiled or canned

½ c raisins

½ c breadcrumbs

2 Tbsp all-purpose flour

1 tsp salt

½ tsp black pepper, ground

2 whole eggs, beaten

6 pc banana leaves, cut into 10 x 12 inches

1 c coconut cream

4 c water

Salt and pepper

3 tbsp butter, melted

Garnish:

Spring onion, sliced

Garlic, fried

Boil crabs for 5 minutes in water seasoned with 1 teaspoon of salt. Remove crab meat from shell and set aside. Wash the shell and let dry.

In a bowl, mix all the ingredients except the eggs and the ingredients listed after eggs.

Season with salt and pepper. Add the beaten egg and mix gently. Chill overnight.

Wilt banana leaves by passing through fire.

To the chilled crab mixture, fold in the fresh coconut cream. Stuff the mixture into each crab shell and gently wrap it with the banana leaves. Set aside.

In a steamer, add 4 cups of water seasoned with salt and pepper. Steam crabs covered for 45 minutes.

To serve, remove from banana leaves and brush top with melted butter. Garnish with spring onions and fried garlic.

Bacalao a la Treñas

(A recipe of Soledad Perez Treñas, revived by Jose Mari Perez Treñas, a Lenten staple at the Treñas household)

1 kg bacalao, dried salted

3 l water, cold

Soak bacalao in cold water for one hour or until the fish is soft. Flake the bacalao and soak again in water for 30 minutes. Squeeze out the water. Do this three times to remove the saltiness of the fish. Set aside. Make the sofrito.

Sofrito à la Treñas

½ c olive oil

1 c garlic, chopped

1 c white onions, chopped

2 cans whole peeled tomatoes (240 g each can)

2 packs tomato sauce (250 g each pack)

2 Tbsp tomato paste

15 pc whole peppercorns, freshly crushed

Heat olive oil. Sauté the garlic until slightly brown. Add the onions until translucent.

Add whole peeled tomatoes, tomato sauce and paste. Simmer in low fire for 40 to 45 minutes, stirring frequently.

Season with freshly ground black pepper. Use only 2 cups of the sofrito for this recipe.

Bacalao

(Main recipe)

½ c olive oil

1 c garlic, chopped

1 c white onion, chopped

2 cans red pimientos (240 g per can), drained, sliced; reserve

1 can for topping

Pepper, freshly ground, to taste

Salt, to taste

1 kg potato, peeled, cubed, fried

150 g green olives, pitted In a pan, add oil. Sauté the garlic and onions.

Add the flaked bacalao and sauté for 30 to 40 minutes or until dry.

Add 2 cups of the sofrito. Simmer for another 15 minutes.

Add in fried potatoes, green olives and red pimientos slices.

Season to taste with freshly ground pepper and salt.

Arrange the cooked bacalao in a baking dish topped with the reserved pimiento slices. Bake until golden brown in a 350 degrees Farenheit oven

Serve hot with garlic bread or steamed rice.

From bacalao to stuffed crabs, Ilonggo food is an eclectic mix of tastes, influenced by Spanish, Malay and Chinese fare

“Flavors of Iloilo” and Iloilo delicacies are available through Christine Lim at tel. 0998-3858616.